sábado, 23 de junio de 2007
¿Cómo está el pescado?
I went to the house of the aunt of my friend Alejandra Taborga today, who plays frisbee with me at the UofC and is originally from Bolivia. I’ve been trying to network as much as possible here (and get some practice hablando en español), but it’s been a bit hard because I’m still adjusting to the altitude (check this out: my pulse in Chicago is más o menos 60, and my pulse here is 95!), and now I’ve come down with a mild version of the flu. Honestly, it’s hard to tell what is what, because all of the pollution from the sputtering taxis and mini-buses makes it hard to breath…but anyway, I’ve been really excited to meet her and her two sons, so when she offered to cook me lunch today I jumped at the chance. I got a bit lost on my way over, had a bit of an adventure, and finally found my way over to her nice yellow apartment building in Sopocachi (the south of the city). I had sent her an email saying I was vegetarian ("Perdón, no quiero ofenderte, pero soy vegetariana"), and as we were discussing lunch, she said she was going to cook me rice, fried potatoes, a salad of tomato and avocado...and some fish. Oh...
I knew that this was going to happen sooner or later, because here it’s basically unheard of to not eat meat, it’s such an integral part of the culture. When you say you're a vegetarian, unless you make it clear that you're allergic to meat, they think that you eat chicken and fish. I think she could see I was looking a bit tired, so she presented me with a huge hunk of fried fish on my plate. Honestly, I’d been walking around all day and I hadn’t really eaten anything in about 20 hours, so I just dove in and started eating it. Having not eaten meat for about 2.5 years now, this marks a pretty big event in my career as a vegetarian. But en realidad, I really, really liked it, era muy rico. I don’t exactly think that I’ll go out and buy myself a fillet of fish or order meat in a restaurant, and I suppose I should wait until I’ve been given a bloody llama steak before I say more, but I don’t think this will be so bad.
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I hope you've been more successful in finding decent vegetarian options around Bolivia after living there a while. We'll be in La Paz from Sept 1st-3rd, Sucre 3rd-4th, Potosi 4th-6th and then Uyuni and on to Chile... Seems like it's difficult to avoid fish and chicken, which we're fine with having, assuming there is less of a factory-farmed-animal industry there, than in North America.
Ohhh I have a few good suggestions for you in all of those cities!
In La Paz, I´ve found that Armonia is a great vegetarian buffet, and all of the coffee shop chains have good (and safe) salads...like Teraza, Alexander, Cafe Berlin...you can just ask them to leave off the meat. Ther´s also an "Irish Pub" in Sopocachi that does decent Soy burgers, if you need a bit of a protein fix.
In Sucre, check out the restaurante El German (all vegetarian, a real treat), and if you want a gringo-tastic experience check out Joy Ride Cafe.
In Potosi, I had a good time eating at the Cafe Cultural K-something (it´s near the Iglesia La Merced and has a really peacefull ambience), and also the restaurante run by Koala Tours (right across the street from the Casa de Moneda, on the second floor up a steep and narrow set of stairs.) I HIGHLY recommend that you go on a tour of the mines with this group, as long as you are in decent physical condition and wont freak out about being in small spaces.
Let me know if I can be of any more help...glad to give recommendations. I just got back from a week and half tour of Cochabamba, Sucre, and Potosi, so it´s still relatively fresh in my mind.
Excellent! Thanks for the list. Those names are now safely written down in my papers for the trip.
I did read about your silver mine experience, and it sounds fascinating/terrifying, because it was a choice between that and the Casa de Moneda since we've only got the one solid day in Potosi. Could a 6'2" person fit through the tunnels? And after just 4 days of altitude... did you feel adjusted yet? I.e. had enough red blood cells on the job?
Hmmm, difficult choice between the Casa de Moneda and the Mines. If you are only in Potosi for one day, I would recommend, actually, that you spend your time wandering around the city and visiting not only the Casa de Moneda, but also the Iglesias and historic buildings. That way you can get a good feel for the city itself (and yes the altitude might bother you in the mines, at 4200m, although you would be chewing lots of coca to make up for it.)
As far as visiting Iglesias, definitely go over to the Convento Santa Teresa - there is an excellent tour, and go for a view on top of the Iglesia La Merced.
Okay, buena suerte!
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